Scent of a Gamer

From the computer to the tabletop, this is all about games. Updated each week-end.

Plague marine painting process

Inspired by The Imperfect Modeller, I decided to document my Plague Marine painting process step by step. The bell ringer was my model for this process, which goes 15 steps.

step 1

Step 1 is to assemble the model, undercoat with the Wraithbone spray, and then touch up any parts with Wraithbone paint as needed.

step 2

Step 2 is to get out the Typhus Corrosion and decide which parts of the model and base will feature rust.

step 3

Step 3 is simply going over the Typhus Corrosion areas with Ryza Rust to get the rust effect. I love this combination of paints.

step 4

Now it’s time to complete the base. Often for me this is the final step, but with these models it made more sense at this stage.

step 5

Runefang Steel both finishes the base and picks out the high points of the rusted areas to look like fresh metal reveals by recent chips.

step 6

Does this count as a step? Tidying up time, as I don’t want the paints used so far to interfere with the rest of the model.

step 7

More contrast paint in step 7 as I pick out a few areas in Black Templar.

step 8

In step 8 I take out my venerable pot of Brazen Brass paint and go over some of the Black Templar areas with this metal. Here I went with the shoulder edges and the metallic halo.

step 9

In step 9 I take the shine out of the brass by using Nilakh Oxide. I let it pool in some areas to increase the grime look of the model.

step 10

Finally I get to the armour! Two contrast paints are used here; Snakebite Leather and Militarum Green. Snakebite Leather is painted into the recesses, and then I go over the rest of the model with the Militarum Green, letting the colours bleed into each other.

step 11

This model as areas that look more like wood than horns to me, so I have used Cygor brown to pick those out, and highlighted by adding a small amount of Wraithbone.

step 12

Now it’s time to paint his robe, and Shysh Purple is used here. This time I highlighted with an artist acrylic called Liquitex heavy Body. You can see the tube on the right of this image. I’ve used a lot of paints already, but the Titanium White creats bright highlights.

step 13

Skeleton Horde is the next contrast paint to come down, as it’s great for picking out bone pieces on models.

step 14

Plaguebearer Flesh is used for the nurgling. Almost there!

step 15

Step 15 is really about 4 steps, but you have to stop taking photos eventually. The main finish here was adding Nazdreg Yellow to complete the plasma gun and highlight parts of the nurgling. I then did some general tidying up on the model, and used a Vallejo blue paint to pick out the nurgling’s eye. Some fleshy parts of the model were picked out but you can’t see them from the front.

and that completes the model!

My usual paint schemes do not run this long, typically I’m done in 8 or 9 steps. With the plague marines I don’t mind the extra steps as I think it pays off in terms of the finish.

13 comments on “Plague marine painting process

  1. Azazel
    October 13, 2019

    Nice work, Dave – a good example of the Contrast Paints in action as well – and with a great outcome, too!

    Liked by 2 people

    • davekay
      October 13, 2019

      Thanks! For this project I think the Contrast Paints both worked well and sped up the process, which is a nice double bonus.


  2. theimperfectmodeller
    October 13, 2019

    Very nicely done Dave and thanks for the shout out. I do love step by step guides and tutorials if for no other reason than they act as an audit trail of how I did things. At my age it is far to easy to forget what I did and how! The fact that you have put one together which will I am sure be of benefit to many others is always an added bonus. Great end result.

    Liked by 2 people

    • davekay
      October 13, 2019

      Thanks, I’ve always enjoyed step-by-steps myself even if I don’t stick to them exactly, so hopefully this will give others some ideas of what could be done.

      Liked by 1 person

  3. mcmattila
    October 13, 2019

    Thanks for the tutorial! I’ve been admiring the rusty iron on your recent DG models, and been meaning to ask you about it. It’s astonishing how simple the recipe is! I think I finally have to get me some Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust.

    Liked by 2 people

    • davekay
      October 13, 2019

      Thanks – yes I can recommend those two paints, they work so well together. Typhus Corrosion can be hard on my brushes though, so I to wash them twice as much as usual after using that paint.


  4. Bookstooge
    October 13, 2019

    That is attention to detail that is far beyond me. My hat is off to you!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Pete S/ SP
    October 13, 2019

    That is great- will definately try Typhus Corrosion as a base coat for rust.




  6. John@justneedsvarnish
    October 13, 2019

    A thorough job, well documented! He has come out well!


  7. Le Bim
    October 14, 2019

    Looks great ! Wip is very clear thanks !

    Liked by 1 person

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This entry was posted on October 13, 2019 by in Painting & Modelling and tagged , , .
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